The best preparedness blogs out there
Here at Preparedness Blogs, were all about your blog. We link to your content, promote you on social media, and do our part in growing your blog. We are looking for experienced and beginner bloggers to join our team.
Once you join, you submit your preparedness related articles to us and we publish them for you. We promote your articles and give you the credit for your work.
We are going to start publishing on a regular basis in December 2013. But for that to happen we need several active bloggers contributing articles for us!
Getting started is simple, head over to the Bloggers page and read what is there. Simply fill out the form at the bottom of the page to create yourself an account. Then you will be ready to submit articles to us. If you have any questions feel free to contact us for more information.
We are also looking to hire a few select bloggers to create content for us. If your interesting in this please contact us.
As most of you saw PreparednessBlogs.com has mostly became a ghost town over the past few months.
I’m here to tell you that this is going to be changing!
I am starting a total revamp on the site. There will be several changes in the way things are done. I hope all of our former bloggers come back and we can make PreparednessBlogs the best preparedness resource on the web!
Please stay tuned for more information as the time comes.
I have a tentative launch date of December 2013.
Sign up for our mailing list to be the first notified of our comeback launch!
Tis the season for gardening and any prepper can tell you that the more food you can grow on your own, the better.
I have a huge clump of chives in my back yard. They come back every year and spread from their roots so I had no idea they had seeds or that I could harvest the seeds to share.
To start, you need to find a clump of chives that has flowered. Select flowers that have mostly dried out.
The tips of the flowers should be white and thin like tissue paper. The next thing I do is separate the flower blooms from the stem, to make them easier to sort.
The dry flowers I set aside for processing and the not so dry flowers I either let air dry for a few days or compost if they are not even close to being ready.
When you pull apart the flower, inside you will find a dark green to black ball, this is where you will find the seeds. Cut this apart, it should divide into three parts, leaving you with some sacks covered in a thin green film.
In each of these sacks is two chive seeds, gently remove the green film to reveal two small black seeds. Set the seeds aside to dry (I put mine on a paper plate away from any breeze) and then store. Chive seeds can be finicky and may only last a year even under optimal storage, so be sure to share with your friends.
I believe it was Albert Einstein who said that without bees, the human species would go extinct within four years.
Honeybees are so essential to our entire food supply and they’re dying off in scary numbers. Between colony collapse and sheer lack of food, our honeybees are disappearing. In my city, we can’t own bees without a whole lot of paper work and fees and inspections etc, etc, so I decided to dedicate part of my garden to bee friendly plants.
Since I live in Canada, I can be somewhat limited to what plants will live here. This year the weather has been especially all over the place (to the point where several people I know had their furnaces on last night, almost a full week into June) and I’ve only seen two honeybees in my yard. But here’s a quick list of what I’ve planted that my local bees seem to love.
Lavender – I have several lavender plants that I use for my soap business but even when I harvest, I leave several stalks that are constantly visited by our bees.
Bee balm – (monarda) produces amazing spiky flowers and is always surrounded by bees.
Strawberries – although I don’t grow these specifically for the bees, the flowers bloom fairly early and give the bees something to pollinate before the other plants show up.
Clover – I have a small piece of the property that isn’t maintained and it is crawling with clover. Anytime I pull up clover from any other part of the lawn, I throw it there to help seed it. I’m sure we’ve all heard of clover honey?
Lilac – although this plant belongs to one of the neighbors and not me, I stay away from it because its surrounded by bees while in bloom.
Most of these plants are fairly hardy regardless of where you are in North America, so consider placing some of them on your land. We all need bees. Please try to avoid commercial insecticides as well and try a natural alternative such as companion planting, soapy water or manual pest removal.
When it comes to raising honeybees, there’s plenty of buzz out there. Before you get started, be sure that you are ready to handle the task.
Be sure to check with your local laws. Your county or municipality may have restrictions on beekeeping, such as how many hives you may have (which can serve to provide a means for controlling bee diseases). There may even be an ordinance prohibiting beekeeping. In many sates, there is a regulation that requires beekeepers to register their apiary locations and pay a small annual registration fee.
Beyond the laws, it’s important to make sure that your neighbors are comfortable with and not seriously opposed to your keeping bees in the community. Find out if anyone has serious allergy issues—so serious that they would need to visit a medical facility if stung.
We use the term “beeline” for a reason. Bees will take the quickest path from their food source to the hive. Sometimes, this results in disturbing humans or animals and pets. Also, bees defecate in flight on their way to food and water. This can stain car finishes and leave colored spots on everything below. If the bees will be flying across a pathway where people walk, consider installing fencing or tall plantings near the hives to encourage the bees to gain altitude quickly.
Bees don’t like to be too hot or too cold. We’ll talk about building a hive in another post, but be sure to face the hive toward open country and where the entrance will receive plenty of sunlight.
Also, place your hives in a sheltered area. Try to avoid hilltops, as they tend to be windy. Also, avoid low spots that hold cold air for longer periods. Be sure that your hive area doesn’t have flooding issues so that you can always access the apiary.
As well as sunlight, bees need water every day of the year. Is water accessible?
Bees also need nectar and pollen. Will you have to feed the bees to ensure their survival? This brings us to food sources . . .
Bees make their honey from nectar. This can be found in plants such as white clover, asters, dandelions, maple trees, citrus trees, etc. After some time, you will come to recognize when the heavy nectar flows occur and when the nectar flow is scarce. Be sure to use this information when calculating the honey output that you will receive at the end of the year.
Before owning bees, make sure that you provide them with a safe, natural habitat. Pesticides on flowers are a major cause of death for honeybees. Be sure that no large areas around you are being treated with commercial insecticides. If a worker bee is not killed on site by the poison, it is possible for her to bring it back to the hive, killing the other bees and even the queen.
The next part of a hive is the bottom super or box. You buy the parts needed and usually it is a about a 20 inches long
by 16 inches wide by about 9 1/2 inches high. These do come pre cut and all you need to do is put them together.They are
usually made of fir, pine or cedar boards. The frames that go into are also made of wood (usually) and have a wire wax
insert. These are for the breeding and the new bee’s that are born.
The next 2 to 3 supers are for the actual honey producing area. The only difference between these two supers is about
3 inches of height! Now you put on as many as 3 or 4 of these supers because you need to leave at least two for the bees
to eat during the winter.